Hair Colour Oxidant: Understanding its Role and Choosing the Right One | GoBeauty
Hair Colour Oxidant: Understanding its Role and Choosing the Right One, Photo 1981

20 May 2022

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Hair Colour Oxidant: Understanding its Role and Choosing the Right One

When it comes to hair colouring, the myriad products and their compositions can be confusing. One such component, often overlooked yet crucial in the colouring process, is the hair colour oxidant. This article aims to demystify the role of oxidants and help you choose the right one for your hair colouring needs.

What is a Hair Colour Oxidant?

Hair colour oxidant, also known as developer or activator, is a hydrogen peroxide-based product used in the hair colouring process. Its primary function is to open up the hair cuticles so that the colour can penetrate the hair shaft, allowing the pigments to react and develop.


Oxidant is typically mixed with the hair dye before application. When mixed with the colour, the oxidant breaks down the chemical bonds in the hair dye, allowing the colour molecules to combine and create a new colour.

How to Choose the Right Oxidant?

Choosing the right oxidant is crucial as it determines how much your hair cuticle opens during the colouring process, which can affect the vibrancy and longevity of the colour, and the health of your hair. Oxidants come in different strengths, usually indicated by a volume number such as 10, 20, 30, or 40. The volume refers to the amount of hydrogen peroxide in the oxidant.

  • 10 Volume (3% Peroxide): This level is used for tone-on-tone colouring, darkening a shade, or covering grey hair. It deposits colour without lifting your natural pigment. This is the most gentle oxidant and it causes the least damage.
  • 20 Volume (6% Peroxide): This is the most commonly used developer. It provides lift and colour deposit, making it suitable for grey hair coverage and lightening your hair by one or two levels.
  • 30 Volume (9% Peroxide): This level is used for high lift colouring and for lightening the hair by up to three levels. This oxidant can be more damaging to your hair and should be used with caution.
  • 40 Volume (12% Peroxide): Used for significant colour changes, this level lightens hair by more than three shades. It should be used with care, and rarely at home, as it can be quite damaging.

When choosing an oxidant, always consider your hair health, natural hair colour, and desired result. A good rule of thumb is to use the lowest volume oxidant that still achieves your desired colour to minimize potential damage.

Professional Guidance

While choosing the right oxidant is essential, so is professional guidance. If you're new to hair colouring or planning a significant colour change, it's best to consult with a hair professional. They can provide expert advice on the right products, including the appropriate oxidant, to use based on your hair type, condition, and desired outcome.

The Bottom Line

Hair colour oxidant plays a vital role in achieving your desired hair colour, but it should be chosen and used with care. The right oxidant will effectively open the hair cuticle for colour deposit while minimizing potential damage. Always remember to consider the health of your hair, the level of colour change desired, and seek professional advice when needed. This way, you'll be on the path to a successful and safe hair colouring journey.


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