Hair Colour Oxidant: The Unsung Hero of Hair Colouring | GoBeauty
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15 March 2022

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Hair Colour Oxidant: The Unsung Hero of Hair Colouring

When you think about hair colouring, the first things that come to mind are probably the myriad shades available, from rich chestnut browns to vibrant reds, and even unconventional hues like blues and greens. However, the real magic of hair colouring doesn't lie solely in these tubes of colour. One crucial component, often under-discussed yet indispensable, is the hair colour oxidant.

What is a Hair Colour Oxidant?

A hair colour oxidant, also commonly referred to as a developer or activator, is a key product used in the hair dyeing process. It is predominantly made of hydrogen peroxide and plays a significant role in helping to achieve the desired hair colour.


The main job of an oxidant is to open up the cuticles, the outermost layer of the hair shaft, so the hair dye can penetrate effectively. Once the cuticles are lifted, the colour can infuse into the hair shaft where it reacts and develops.


When combined with the hair dye, the oxidant also helps break the existing chemical bonds in the dye, releasing the colour molecules and allowing them to merge and form new colour complexes. This chemical reaction is known as oxidation, hence the name 'oxidant'.

The Different Strengths of Hair Colour Oxidant

Oxidants come in various strengths, which are typically indicated by a volume number such as 10, 20, 30, or 40. The volume signifies the concentration of hydrogen peroxide in the oxidant.

  • 10 Volume (3% peroxide): This strength is typically used for depositing colour without lift. It is ideal for tone-on-tone colouring, going darker, or simply covering grey hair.
  • 20 Volume (6% peroxide): The 20 volume oxidant is the most commonly used strength. It provides moderate lift while depositing colour, making it suitable for lightening your hair by one or two shades.
  • 30 Volume (9% peroxide): A 30 volume oxidant is used for high lift colouring. It can lighten the hair by up to three levels. However, it is worth noting that this higher concentration of peroxide can be more damaging to the hair.
  • 40 Volume (12% peroxide): The strongest commonly available oxidant, 40 volume is used for major colour changes, lightening the hair by more than three levels. It should be used with extreme caution due to its potential to cause significant hair damage.

The Role of the Hair Colour Oxidant in Hair Health

While oxidants are crucial to the hair dyeing process, their impact on hair health should also be considered. Hair colour oxidants lift the cuticle layer, potentially leading to dryness and damage over time. Therefore, choosing the right oxidant — typically the lowest volume that can achieve the desired result — is key to maintaining the integrity of your hair.


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The hair colour oxidant is an integral part of the hair colouring process. Its role in helping to achieve the desired hair shade is as crucial as the dye itself. By understanding what a hair colour oxidant is and how it works, you can make informed decisions about your hair colouring treatments, ensuring beautiful results while maintaining the health of your hair.